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Guide

Artificial grass or real turf? An honest comparison for Kent gardens

A lawn that turns to mud every winter and brown every August makes artificial grass look tempting. A real lawn, though, does things a plastic one can't, from cooling the garden to feeding birds and insects. Neither is right for every garden. This guide compares them honestly on the things that matter day to day, without prices, which are covered in the costs guide. Where the environmental arguments come up, it sticks to what published sources say.

Updated 9 November 2026 · 9 minute read · General guidance only: check your own project with your council, Building Control and a qualified professional.

In short

  • Real turf needs mowing, feeding and some watering, while artificial grass needs brushing, rinsing and leaf clearing.
  • Both need good ground preparation. On Kent clay, artificial grass still needs a free-draining base and somewhere for the water to go.
  • A 2024 systematic review found surface temperatures were consistently higher on synthetic grass than on natural grass.
  • The RHS says lawns can support bees, birds and other wildlife, and campaigners backed by the RHS oppose plastic grass because it covers living soil.
  • The RHS advises laying turf between mid-autumn and early spring, ideally within 24 hours of delivery.

Real turf and artificial grass at a glance

The table sums up the main differences. The sections below explain each one, and what it means in a typical Kent garden.

Real turfArtificial grass
LookNatural, changes with the seasons, may brown in droughtGreen all year, consistent; quality varies by product
Regular careMowing in the growing season, feeding, occasional aeration and watering of new turfBrushing, removing leaves, rinsing, occasional weed control at edges
DrainageSoil absorbs rain, but clay can waterlog and compaction makes it worseWater drains through the backing into the base below, so the base must be free-draining
HeatStays relatively cool in sunCan get much hotter than real grass in full sun
WildlifeSupports soil life, insects and feeding birds, especially if mown lessCovers the soil, offering little food or habitat
Wear and repairCan be reseeded or patched; recovers from wear in growing seasonHard-wearing, but damage such as burns or tears needs a repair patch
End of lifeCompostable organic materialA plastic product that must be lifted and disposed of

Look, feel and everyday upkeep

A well-kept real lawn is hard to beat for softness underfoot and the way it changes through the year. The work is regular rather than heavy: mowing through the growing season, feeding, raking out moss and thatch, and aerating if the ground is compacted. In a dry summer the RHS points out that leaving the grass a little longer helps it cope, and a browned lawn usually recovers once rain returns.

Artificial grass appeals because it looks green all year with no mowing. It isn't maintenance-free, though:

  • Leaves, blossom and debris need clearing regularly, especially under trees, because they rot down on the surface and give weeds and moss somewhere to grow.
  • The pile needs brushing to stop it flattening in busy areas.
  • Weeds can still appear around the edges and at joins, and in debris on the surface.
  • Spills, bird droppings and pet waste need rinsing off.
  • It can be damaged by heat, such as a barbecue, a dropped cigarette or sunlight concentrated by a window or mirror.

Quality varies a great deal between products. Look at samples outside in daylight, walk on them, and ask to see an installation that is a few years old rather than one that has just been laid.

Drainage, sub-base and Kent soils

Both kinds of lawn depend on the ground underneath, and that varies a lot across Kent.

  • Heavy clay, such as the Weald Clay south of Maidstone and around Tonbridge and Paddock Wood, or the London Clay of Sheppey, Whitstable and Herne Bay, holds water in winter and cracks in a dry summer.
  • Thin soil over chalk, common in Thanet, around Dover and on the Kent Downs, drains fast and dries out quickly, so real lawns brown sooner in a dry spell.
  • New-build gardens across the county are often compacted subsoil and builders' fill under a thin layer of topsoil.

A real lawn on clay may need its soil improved, the surface aerated, or a drainage run installed before turf goes down. On thin chalk soil, a deeper layer of good topsoil helps the roots. The RHS advises digging or rotavating the soil to a depth of 20 to 25 cm before laying turf, then firming and raking it level.

Artificial grass is laid on a compacted, free-draining stone base with a finer levelling layer, often with a weed membrane, and fixed edging to hold it. Rain passes through holes in the backing into that base. On clay, the water can't soak away quickly, so a base laid in a dish of clay can turn into a sump. Ask the landscaper how deep the base will be, whether the existing soil will be dug out, and whether a drainage pipe or outlet is needed. The drainage guide on this site covers the options.

Heat, shade and summer use

Artificial grass gets hot in strong sun. A 2024 systematic review of 23 studies, mostly of sports pitches, found that surface temperatures were consistently higher on synthetic grass than on natural grass, by between about 9 and 34 degrees Celsius in the studies reviewed, with smaller differences in air temperature just above the surface. A domestic lawn isn't a sports pitch, but the principle is the same: plastic fibres absorb heat, while living grass is cooled by moisture evaporating from its leaves.

  • On a south-facing Kent garden in a heatwave, artificial grass can become uncomfortable for bare feet and paws. Some owners hose it down to cool it.
  • Real grass in the same spot may brown, but it stays cooler to sit on.
  • In deep shade, real grass often struggles and turns thin and mossy. Artificial grass can look better there, though shade and damp encourage algae and moss on its surface too.
  • A mixed approach is common: real grass where the sun falls, and planting, gravel or paving in the shadiest corner.

Children, dogs and other pets

Families often choose artificial grass because it means no muddy feet in winter. It does stay usable after rain, as long as the base drains properly. It is also a firm surface, so if children play on it, ask about a shock pad under the grass and think about the edges.

For dogs, each option has drawbacks:

  • Dog urine can scorch patches in a real lawn, and busy dogs wear paths along fences.
  • On artificial grass, urine drains through to the base, but it needs rinsing regularly, especially in warm weather, to stop smells building up. Solid waste must be picked up and the area washed.
  • Dogs that dig can damage both, though artificial grass is harder to dig through.
  • Artificial grass gets hot in full sun, so check it before letting pets lie on it in a heatwave.

Some homeowners use artificial grass for a small dog run or play area and keep real lawn elsewhere, which can be a good compromise.

Wildlife, soil and biodiversity

A real lawn is a living habitat. The RHS says green woodpeckers hunt for ants on short grass, some solitary bees nest in lawns, blackbirds hunt for worms, and bumblebees forage where clover and other lawn flowers are allowed to bloom. Many grasses are food plants for the caterpillars of butterflies and moths. The RHS suggests mowing on a longer cycle, or leaving a patch uncut, to help this wildlife.

Artificial grass covers the soil and offers none of this. In 2023 the Society of Garden Designers launched a campaign against plastic grass and plants, supported by the RHS and the Landscape Institute, arguing that plastic grass smothers the soil and removes food and habitat for wildlife. Press reports at the time also said the RHS does not allow artificial grass in its show gardens.

Real turf has an environmental cost too. Some turf is grown on a plastic mesh, and the RHS advises asking the supplier for turf without it, because the mesh adds plastic to the environment and can cause problems with lawn care. A lawn also needs mowing, and new turf needs watering until it roots.

If wildlife matters to you but you want less mowing, ask a landscaper about a lawn managed with a longer cut, a mini-meadow area or a wildflower turf, rather than an all-or-nothing choice.

Lifespan, disposal and replacement

A real lawn doesn't wear out if it is looked after. Worn or bare patches can be reseeded or returfed, and a tired lawn can be renovated in autumn. If you later decide to change the garden, the old turf can be stacked to rot down into loam or composted.

Artificial grass has a finite life. How long depends on the product, how much use it gets and how much sun it sees, so check the manufacturer's warranty and what it covers, such as fading and pile wear. At the end of its life, the grass has to be lifted, along with any infill, and disposed of. It is a plastic product with a woven backing, and the garden designers' campaign says it can't be recycled. Ask the supplier whether any take-back or recycling route exists for the product you are considering, and how old grass would be disposed of.

Think about what is underneath too. When artificial grass is removed, the stone base and membrane are left, so returning the area to real lawn means digging that out and bringing in new topsoil.

When to lay turf, and the first year

If you decide on real turf, timing makes a big difference to how quickly it establishes. The RHS says turf is best laid in mid-autumn, and can be laid any time between mid-autumn and early spring when the soil isn't too wet or frozen. It advises against laying from mid-spring to early autumn, because new turf struggles in hot weather and needs repeated watering.

  1. Prepare the groundClear the old lawn and weeds, dig or rotavate to 20 to 25 cm, firm by treading and rake level. Add topsoil where needed, especially over chalk or builders' fill.
  2. Lay promptlyThe RHS says turf should be laid within 24 hours of delivery if possible. Lay it in a staggered pattern like brickwork and work from boards so you don't dent the soil.
  3. WaterWater well if no rain is forecast. Spring-laid turf often needs extra watering through its first dry summer.
  4. First mowThe RHS says to mow with the blades set high once the turf has rooted, usually about three weeks after laying.

On heavy clay, laying in very wet weather compacts the soil, so a good landscaper will wait for a drier spell rather than work on sodden ground.

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Sources

FAQs

Artificial grass or real turf? An honest comparison for Kent gardens: common questions

Does artificial grass drain on clay soil?

Water passes through the grass into the base, but on clay it can't soak away quickly. The base needs to be free-draining and may need a pipe or outlet so water doesn't collect. Ask the landscaper how they will deal with it.

Is artificial grass bad for wildlife?

It covers the soil and offers little food or shelter. The RHS describes how real lawns support bees, birds and invertebrates, and garden designers, backed by the RHS, campaign against plastic grass for that reason.

Can I lay turf in summer?

You can, but the RHS advises against laying between mid-spring and early autumn because new turf struggles in hot weather and needs repeated watering. Mid-autumn is the RHS's preferred time.

Does artificial grass need planning permission?

Not usually in a back garden. Across a front garden, the drainage rules for hard surfaces may be relevant, so check with your council if you are unsure.

Will artificial grass smell if I have a dog?

It can, if it isn't rinsed regularly, because urine drains into the base. Regular hosing and picking up waste promptly help, and a well-draining base matters.

Can a waterlogged lawn be saved without replacing it?

Often. Aerating with a hollow-tined aerator, top-dressing with sand and dealing with run-off from nearby paving can help. The drainage guide on this site explains more.

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